Friday, 2 March 2012
I could probably go to Renfrew* and not get beat up for my shirt
I've been itching to use some of my new knits for myself but I wasn't sure how to use them. As well we all know, I've done my cowl dress pattern to death (including with normal neckline) and should just step back from that. And alas, despite earnest attempts I have never managed to successfully amend it to t-shirt length. But after seeing at least sixteen different people's versions of the Renfrew shirt from Sewaholic I thought I'd splash out and take advantage of someone else's hard work.
The pattern is great because it has three different necklines (scoop, v-neck, and cowl) and three different sleeve lengths (short, three-quarters, and long) so you can mix and match. Another feature that obviously gets two thumbs up from me is arm cuffs and waistband. No hemming, just as I like it. Very fast to sew up. If you can't bear to look as such extreme close-ups of me, I went with three quarter sleeves and a scoop neck. The fabric is very nice double knit I picked up from Mandor's last year, and I used less than a metre.
If I'm looking thoughtful in the above picture, that's probably because I'm wondering why anyone drafts a knit pattern with 5/8" seam allowances. I cannot sew large seam allowances on my serger, ever. If I had noticed it used 5/8" I would have removed 3/8" from the pattern before cutting the fabric, and not noticing this until after caused me to have some serious First World problems. My neckband is 3/8" too tall and therefore not taut at all. The shoulder seams fall roughly 3/8" off my shoulders onto my upper arm.
Just look how deeply saddened I am about the pooling of fabric above my waistband. No doubt this would also improve if I either used 5/8" as I was told to or reduced the pattern. I also have a freakishly short torso, so I should maybe shorten the whole shebang at high waist-ish. Anyone have any (non-perverted) helpful thoughts about the horizonatal over-bust and diagonal under-bust drags?
Although I generally look depressed or angry in these pictures, I was actually taking very specific instructions from Jamie about how I should stand and which way I should look. That's right, I trust my six year old to get better pictures than Steven.
*There is a Renfrew in Scotland within fifty miles of us and I would probably get beat up for other reasons.
I am about the furthest thing possible from a fit expert, but don't horizontal lines mean it's too tight? Maybe you need a slight FBA even though it's a knit? I'm sure Katie will weigh in and provide much more helpful comments to mine. :)
ReplyDeleteThat's what I thought about horizontal lines too but I wasn't sure if it was excess material pooling above the bust because the distance between there and my shoulders is so small.
Deletesometimes a pattern doesn't fit our body type and doesn't matter what you change... its also good experience though.
ReplyDeletecolour is fab on you !
You might be right, slouchy fits are not normally a good look on my busty short torso :)
DeleteI like it! Definitely a better fit than shop bought. But yep, you definitely need an FBA. Dartless though, since darts in a knit are just silly talk. Try doing this and easing in the extra from the front into the back. Knits are really forgiving, as you know. You can usually get away with that sort of cheating.
ReplyDeleteI will do that next time, thank you! Do you think I should shorten the whole thing at the high waist too?
DeleteThe neckline on mine isn't taut enough either, I'm just going to make it an inch shorter next time and stretch to fit. I personally think you look gorgeous in it, I love the colour and the 3/4 length sleeves. x
ReplyDeleteI hardly had to stretch mine at all! Before I pressed the life out of it the band flopped right down. My rule of thumb is normally about 15% to 20% less than the edge you're sewing it to depending on the stretch of the fabric and the height of the band. And thanks :)
DeleteI like the fabric pooling abovethe waistband, but if tht wasn't your intended style then I can see it would bug. Love the colour on you:)
ReplyDeleteLike others have said...love the color on you! It's a nice looking top. I'm curious to see the next one with the changes.
ReplyDeleteThese patterns are designed for pear-shaped ladies, but are also meant to fit any shape..keeping that in mind, I was surprised at the fit, on me, across the shoulders, and on the bust. I cannot offer any suggestions, but an FBA sounds like a plan. I love the colour on you. I am short waisted too btw!
ReplyDeleteArtistic talent must run in the family; beautiful shirt and excellent photos.
ReplyDeleteI love the 'puddle' around your hips,very flattering.
ReplyDeleteI think you just have big boobs for your tiny size,it may even stretch a little as you wear it.
Its really lovely.
I agree you need an FBA. I needed one for this top too (similar above bust wrinkle) and I'm only a B. And I think shorten the waist as well.
ReplyDeleteI think it came out well for a first try on a new pattern! I'm about to make that top too, but since I have wide hips snd a super-long torso, I'll probably have a different set of problems! The color is lovely.
ReplyDelete