Wednesday, 19 March 2014

25

Perfect Pattern Parcel: Lady Skater / Ava Mashup into Wonder Woman Dress

Ava / Lady Skater mashup

You've probably seen people blogging about the inaugural Perfect Pattern Parcel everywhere over the last ten days!  The brainchild of Rachael from Imagine Gnats, Jill from Made with Moxie (as well as her techie husband Danny), Pattern Parcel collects together patterns from Independent Designers and makes them available as a bundle for two weeks only.



Not only does PPP aim to support indie designers, but a portion of the proceeds also goes to the charity Donors Choose, an amazing organization that matches up the needs of teachers and their students for specific projects with willing donors. The funds raised from each Pattern Parcel sale will go to help K-12 students in minimizing educational inequality and encourage a community where children have the tools and experiences necessary for an excellent education.   Not only does the buyer get to choose their own price for the bundle, but they also get to choose how that price is proportioned between designers / organisers / charity.  Neato, right?

Ava / Lady Skater mashup

I had such a hard time choosing which pattern to make!  Obviously I wanted to use knits (because I am nothing if not predictable) and although the Ava Dress / Top from Victory Patterns is supposed to be for wovens after I saw Adriana Crafterhours's knit Ava I knew I must do it.

Ava / Lady Skater mashup

And I must do it ridiculously.  Achievement unlocked.

Ava / Lady Skater mashup

So, a laundry list of the changes I made to the Ava to start.  Based on my measurements and finished garment measurements I started with a straight size 8.  I reduced the seam allowances from 5/8" to 3/8" because you couldn't pay me to use 5/8"s with knits.  After a first fitting, I removed an additional 1/2" to the shoulder height because of my petite upper body, increased the under bust darts by half an inch each, and removed 2" from each side seam in width at the bust tapering to nothing at the bottom edge.

Ava / Lady Skater mashup

I added a 3" waist band as I wanted it to hit less at empire height, and more at my natural waist.  To compensate for the extra travelling distance over the bust, I had to make a sway back adjustment to the back bodice of about an inch before attaching the waistband.  It still hangs a little bit lower to the back.

Ava / Lady Skater mashup

The original plan was to leave it sleeveless (as one of the pattern options) but all of my bras come up so very high under the arm that sleeveless garments are generally problematic and more hassle than they're worth to perfect.  So I also drafted sleeves, and banded them with yellow.  The neckline I dropped by 1.5" at centre front, and banded as well.

Ava / Lady Skater mashup

The Ava skirt is a similar shape to the Lady Skater skirt but it is panelled and I literally had a half a metre left of the blue stars.  So I used the Lady Skater skirt instead and narrowed the sweep until I could fit it in my tiny fabric piece.  I'm happy with the less full skirt as it makes it more casual and less costume-y.

Wonder Woman shoes

The real stars of this photoshoot (if really there is such a thing*) are of course my shoes!  If I wore my Wonder Woman bathing suit and this dress and my shoes, that'd be three full layers of dorkery.

Ava / Lady Skater mashup

For all the people who've been making fun of my interchangeable facial expressions, this is why.  I'm not angry, this is just my face.

So if you haven't already, head over to Perfect Pattern Parcel to get your bundle!  It's only available til Friday night (21 March).

*This is my first time using my tripod and remote outside.  The only thing more embarrassing than taking pictures of yourself in a Wonder Woman dress in your shared garden is taking pictures of yourself in your overcoat in a field overlooked by the entire estate before taking your tripod and camera home in a huff because you couldn't get it to focus.

25 comments:

  1. I am in love with your dress and must rush out and make myself one. It's gorgeous and so brilliantly nerdy it's irresistible.

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  2. Yeah, totally stalking Etsy to find blue stars to make this for my Wonder Woman loving daughter. Her birthday is in three weeks and the shop that had the rainbow she wanted is on vacation, so its time to change the plans. She will LOVE this. thank you.

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  3. Stop the presses! I'm freaking in LOVE! With you, With this dress. You freaking rock rock rock! Thank you for sharing this.

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  4. Love the dress. I made a Wonder Woman outfit a few years ago. I am trying to use a tripod and remote as well. I keep getting burry images too. How did you fix it? Is there something that I am doing wrong?

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    1. I didn't manage to fix it! I had to do a lot of work photo-editing afterwards to sharpen it up and try to get the exposure more balanced. If I find out how to fix it I'll pass it on :)

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  5. I am a huge fan of your Lady Skater pattern and love this look as well. I'd love to hear what you do for a swayback adjustment. I've found that I need to do one....just not exactly sure how. Thanks!!

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    1. Thanks, Ruby! Have you seen my Lady Skater fitting post? There is a sway back adjustment in there. In effect, what is does is remove the downward curve of the back bodice piece. Making it more-or-less horizontal might be enough to remove the pooling, but you might find that you actually have to invert the downward curve into an upward one. When sewn to the downward curve of the skirt piece, it makes a fisheye dart that lifts the pooling higher up your back and hopefully removes it. Does that make sense? If not, I can draw a picture!

      The fitting post is here: http://kitschycoo.blogspot.co.uk/2013/06/the-lady-skater-fitting-and-adjustments.html

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  6. Your wonder woman dress is adorable! Thanks for finally helping me understand what a swayback adjustment is. I was wondering why you don't like to use a 5/8" seam allowance with knits? I haven't sewn many knit items yet, so I haven't developed a seam allowance preference -- I just do what the pattern tells me.

    I giggled at the "this is just my face" -- I have that kind of face, too! :D

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    1. Well, I don't like 5/8" on knits for a couple of reasons! Mostly I think it's unnecessary in most cases.

      Fitting wise, 5/8" is handy enough when sewing with wovens as the extra SA allows you greater flexibility to perform fitting adjustments on. Knits in general require less fitting because they conform to your body / allow negative ease.

      Sewing wise, I think that 5/8" is better suited to wovens because you actually need that extra to finish your seams. Knits (for the most part) don't unravel on the cut edge so the extra SA you need to both stitch a seam and finish the edges (or hide the edges in the case of french seams, bound edges, etc) for wovens is overkill with knits. I wouldn't leave a 5/8" allowance on a knit without trimming it down because I think it would look bulky anywhere where the garment was close fitting. And finally, after baste fitting with my regular machine I use a serger that would lop off the extra 2/8" anyway :)

      Sorry, that turned into a novel!

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  7. YOU!!!! Ahhhhhhh this is amazing. Ship to me when done, yes?

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  8. I love this! I broke down and got the parcel even though I already had the skater dress - it is a great idea and the Ava/skater skirt blend is awesome!

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  9. I'd already seen it on Instagram. I love your dress, it's really cool!

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  10. Love this dress SO much. Nice work :)

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  11. What a cute, fun dress! Love it! I, too, am a lady skater pattern fan. Very nice pattern - thank you! I would love to know how you narrowed the skirt on your dress. I would very much like to try, just not sure exactly how to do it. Do use you the reverse of "slash and spread"? Thanks!

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  12. Nice post, i hope everyone will like your post..

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  13. Thanks for sharing this wonderful post, It is awesome.

    Nice post, i hope everyone will like your post..

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  14. This is so awesome. I hope you really wear it!

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  15. i love this amanda! it suits you! you're amazing!

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  16. OMG I love this dress. Where did you get the star fabric?!

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