The tank was forced gently placed on Maia and it fits super well. And the back's not too shabby either.
Because Millie asked so nicely about the way I did the binding, here's my compendium of different methods of knit binding. And why I don't like them. Except my own way, which I love.
Method One: Single fold binding
- Binding is folded in half:
- On fold, sewn to the right side of the garment:
- End result flipped up:
NB: You can topstitch seam allowance back down to the main fabric for a nicer finish, I didn't because I'm in a ridiculous hurry.
- Why I don't like it: If you're binding a neckline or something super curvy you have to cut the binding much shorter and make it stretch evenly to fit. Too. Many. Pins.
- Binding folded in half and then into quarters:
- Folded to hide raw edges and the bottom fold extend a little bit further down from the top fold:
- Binding encloses raw edge like a sandwich:
- Stitched close to the bottom edge (thereby catching the hidden folded edge on the inside that extends slightly further) The right side:
The wrong side:
- Why I don't like it: You have too be oh-so-slow and careful to make sure you are catching the hidden bottom edge in a non-ugly fashion
- Binding folded up about a third of the way to give stitch guide:
- Placed to the right side of garment and stitched along press line:
- Binding pulled up and over the raw edges into the inside of the garment and pressed down:
- Stitched on the right side of the garment just below the bottom edge of the binding:
- Why I don't like it: It's honestly not that bad, but I don't love the trimmed raw edge. That's the kind of thing that shops cover up with a coverstitch.
- As per Method One, fold binding in half but put it to the wrong side of the garment:
- Once stitched, flip the binding to the right side:
- Fold it over so that it encloses the seam allowance. Roll it a tiny bit so the edge of the binding is still visible from the wrong side (otherwise known as Don't Drag the Wrong Side of the Garment Up and Over So Everyone Can See It). You should be able to feel the seam allowance hiding inside.
- Stitch the binding down close to the edge from the right side:
Pardon the skipped stitches, my machine was being an a**hole.
- The wrong side looks nice too (and see what I mean about a tiny bit of the binding still visible from the inside):
- A better picture of both sides when machines are being cooperative:
- Why this method is awesome: Good looking from both sides, and you don't need to cut the binding smaller than the neckline and stretch it to fit.






I LOVE this post so much!! Thank you for explaining all of that to me - knit binding had me completely flumoxed until now!! Thanks!
ReplyDeleteManda - treefall design
Thank you! I am spatially impaired so I was having a hard time picturing what you were describing. Also a major reason why Big-4 patterns make me cry.
ReplyDeleteGreat tutorial. Know what you mean about *@!* sewing machines, Mine was being a pain last night in the middle of a lovely embroidery. Still got it done in the end.
ReplyDeleteWonderful!! I have been using the Ottobre method, but wasn't a fan of the yucky un coverstitched edge either. Now I don't have to run out and get a coverstitch machine!
ReplyDeleteWow. I am so impressed at how clear your words and images are. Thank you for your time in putting that together!
ReplyDeletebrilliant! thanks for sharing...next week when things calm down here (son is graduating...from. high. school.~~hyperventilating~~) I will attempt a bathing suit for Lilz using your boy cut briefs pattern and a pattern I have for a tank top...i'll post a photo on your flickr group :)
ReplyDeleteOoh, I like this method a lot, thank you! I've tried a variety of ways of doing it (including by hand because I am apparently utterly wrong in the head) and I think yours is going to be my favourite. I'm working with some very slinky jersey at the moment and shall report back.
ReplyDeleteHAHA! You're a cheater like me! Shhh! Don't tell too many more people... -wink. Excellent explanations!
ReplyDeleteAllie
alliemakes.blogspot.com
Thank you, thank you! I have tried the first 3 methods, with mixed results. I sew mainly Ottobre and only had their methods to go by.
ReplyDeleteI must remember to "ask nicely" in future, it gets results!...Thanks again for the time you took to do this.
I never tried binding this way, but I have to say I am intrigued and will definitely try this! Thnx.
ReplyDeleteWhere do you buy your gorgeous knit jerseys from? I love that red and white print knit on this top.
ReplyDeleteThis is brilliant!!! I'm a new blogger sewing mum and crafterhours sent me on your blog address as you are this side of the pond too (I'm in Yorkshire, UK). I love this tutorial, but can I ask is the binding bought or just some jersey cut on the bias? I'm trying to make some bibs for a girl with special needs and wanted to bind with jersey rather than cotton but on the bought bib's I've seen it was ribbed??? If you get chance to reply (accept you are prob v busy) the post is on my blog about the bibs - http://bella-boutiqueuk.blogspot.com/2011/02/fun-helping-others.html
ReplyDeletemy heart is beatting fast! I am so excited to see a binding that might inspire me to sew with knits again....binding knits has been a real nightmare for me. thanks!
ReplyDeleteI really appreciate you taking the time to post this! Your method is awesome. It opens the door to a bunch of projects I have wanted to do but was too afraid because of binding with knit! Huge thank-yous from a Dubai mama!!
ReplyDeleteWell, DUH! Not "duh" as in, of course we already knew that - "duh" as in, "why the heck did I not ever think of that?!" It makes so much sense. This is brilliant!
ReplyDeleteThis is fantastic! Thanks for posting with such clear instructions @ pictures!
ReplyDeleteThis is a great tutorial! But I have what is probably a "duh" question. If you're binding a neckline using the Kitschy Coo method, do you need to shorten the piece of binding? Or does using a serger keep the garment neckline from getting distorted? (Hope I'm not posting multiple times... having operator issues with the comment form!)
ReplyDeleteI don't think you need to shorten it if you're planning on flipping it over. Maybe 10% shorter depending on the pattern:)
ReplyDelete