Don't underestimate the buddha belly

I drafted a little reversible waistcoat to match the reversible trousers and skirt from last week. I wanted it to be quite neat fitting and figured 'Hey, little bodies are like tubes...' so it's basically the same width through the chest and waist. Except Maia is not a little tube, she's a Buddha.


I could get the top button done over her chest but couldn't get the two lower buttons fastened over her capacious belly.

I'm not sure if I'll re-draft the pattern to fit as I primarily made it for reversible tute purposes. Is there any demand for little waistcoats?!

Anway, here it is apple side up:

And dotty side up:

Other than the fact it's unwearable, it came out pretty cute! So what do you think, back to the drawing board or on the shelf?

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Doing my bit

Anyone else agog that this baby-faced twelve year old boy got his fifteen year old girlfriend pregnant and is now a dad at thirteen? Britain, and Scotland in particular, has one of the highest teenage pregancy rates in Western Europe. A lot of money is thrown at education and prevention programmes to try to ameliorate this situation, but the statistics have not dramatically improved. So I'm stepping up to the challenge.

Sure, if you have a baby when you're a teenager you might get your own council house, but it'll look like this:

Bookcase emptied, cushions removed from couch and thrown on floor, the contents of two toy boxes made into a towering toy pyre. Have a closer look, Maia is even playing a celebratory tune on a toy saxophone.

Like a cup of coffee or tea? In the time required to make one, your children will do this to your living room. Wondering what they're doing over in the corner of the room? Emptying the CD rack. But at least they're doing something together, they've found a common interest. Because this is what their interaction normally looks like:

Last time I saw that hold, it was in an Ultimate No Holds Barred fight. But don't worry about her, she wins more often than not...

So if you think that parenthood will be like the top picture, where you can blissfully play your Playstation while holding the baby, that'll last about two weeks. Then you'll be lucky if your Playstation even works after a piece of toast has been shoved in the slot. And the controllers are missing. And the rules are suddenly too hard due to your sleep-deprived baby brain.

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Folksy finds Valentines

Valentine's Day is upon us again, so I'd be an awful spoilsport not to have a Valentine's themed Folksy Finds! Hope your gifts are of this caliber and not from a garage forecourt!


This appliqued Valentine's flower by Kitty Eden has a lovely blend of fabrics and textures.



I'm stunned by how realistic this Paper Rose bouquet by PrettyPaperRoses is! They come in a lovely gift wrap and are painted in your choice of colour.

This Pierced lace flower pendant by Jemima Lumley Jewellery is put through a rolling mill with vintage lace for texture and then hand cut into a beautiful asymetrical shape.

I love the little creatures that Treacle Zoo brings to life, and this adorable Kissy bear is no exception!

From another one of my favourite makers, this Cakeify postcard set by Asking for Trouble has quirky Kawaii inspired food with a Valentine's theme.

This sophisticated Love greeting card by Dig the Earth has a graphic illustration with script lettering over the top.

This beautiful one of a kind moleskin Luckenbooth Valentine journal by Illusio Creative Art and Design is handpainted in lovely tones and geometric textures.

A true Valentine's afficionato will appreciate this Heart print tape by Magic Alice for wrapping their gifts, but it's pretty enough for lots of other purposes!

This simple yet stunning Love heart and pearl necklace by Ali Bali Jewellery combines a silver heart with a subtle sheen with two freshwater pearls.

This pretty Valentine's card and brooch by Fibrespace has a detachable felted wool brooch on a screen printed card.

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Agent 003.5

I'm sure you've all been wondering what my wee eccentric has been up to lately, but frankly, so am I. All I can tell you is that he started going to nursery two afternoons a week a couple of weeks ago. They have an incredible reputation, I was shocked that they had a vacancy at short notice. So good is their reputation, that it's a bit like the Oxford or Harvard of the Edinburgh nursery scene.

You might have heard rumours that covert agencies like MI5 and the CIA infiltrate top universities to recruit spies, getting the best and the brightest when they are young and malleable. Well, these are scary times what with lead-laden killer books, phthalate-riddled cotton dresses and of course the Living etc forum, so I think they have been forced to extend their recruitment into an even younger substrate. And where better to hide their nefarious spy agenda than the benignly named Mr Squirrel's?

Since starting at Mr Squirrel's, Jamie's behaviour has progressed from being merely inexplicable to become both inexplicable and mysterious. Like all good spies, his activities beyond the house have become 'don't ask, don't tell' situations. Here's how things sound in our house these days:

Me: Hey Jaim, how was nursery today? What did you do?
Jamie: I tell you later.
Me: What did Grandma say to you on the phone?
Jamie: I tell you later.
Me: Where are you going with my wallet?
Jamie: I no tell you, I tell Daddy.
Daddy: Where are you going with Mummy's wallet?
Jamie: I tell you later.

You got to hand it to these guys, they know what they're doing. Not only has my three year old acquired a secret double life, but he's become well versed on diversion and the Socratic method. Previously, when he did outlandish or naughty things and I asked "Why did you do that?!' he would honestly and simply answer, 'Cuz I like.' Now, when he does outlandish or naughty things and is challenged with a 'Why did you do that?!' he cryptically answers, 'I don't know. You tell me.' Way to turn the tables, kiddo. I stare into space thinking of a way to explain to him that being a toddler is equivalent to being a crazed lunatic dictator, and the frustration at not being in control manifests itself in uber-controlling psychotic episodes, or that he is exploring the boundaries of himself and between himself and other people so that he can grow up secure and comforted... He's off doing secretive outlandish things elsewhere.

I can only imagine that Jamie came to the attention of these recruiters because of his precocious techno-savvy. Ever since he was tiny, he has studied how things work and memorised how we use things. Consequently, he's able to independently operate almost any appliance (even those he shouldn't). Two days in a row now, he has put on his favourite movie (Toy Story) and then navigated the specific menus so that it is dubbed in German, watches the whole movie, and then quotes back phrases in what I assume to be as German. I don't know why, he's going to tell me later.

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How to make things reversible: Sandwiching

Following on from my first post on how to adapt a pre-existing patterns, I'll now start breaking down the methods of making things reversible into a couple of different categories. These are not prescribed methods, just what I've come up with in my experience!

1. Sandwiching: best for skirts, trousers, and t-shirts with binded edges


2. Bagging: for sleeveless dresses that separate at the shoulders (i.e. button or snap closures)


3. Flipping: for garments that separate down the front and have sleeves, like jackets or cardigans


4. Mixed bag: for garments that separate down the front but don't have sleeves, like waistcoats or my very own swing tops

Sandwiching is the only one where you are making it reversible from the outside in, the other methods involve a bit of blind faith sewing (where the two sides are sewn together right sides in then pulled out through various holes). Again, these aren't presciptive, you can mix and match whatever suits you best. I'm a flipper myself, so I'm always trying to figure out a way to use this method!

This post covers the simplest method of making things reversible: 'sandwiching'. By sandwiching, I mean that the two sides of the garment are constructed independantly to the stage of hemming, you put one inside the other wrong sides in, and then finish. You can do this either with bias tape or by folding both edges to the inside and topstitching. Broadly speaking, 'sandwiching' can be used to make almost anything reversible with careful thought on how to adapt your pattern and extreme patience for binding or hemming, but in my experience is best suited to skirts and trousers.

Using bias tape to cover and enclose your raw edges is probably the easiest method of making things reversible (provided you get along with bias tape, I don't!). Wherever you plan on using tape, you'll need to amend your original pattern because the tape will rest against the raw edge where it would normally be folded. So for a skirt or trousers, remove the hem allowance. If you're also using tape at the waistband, remove the excess in the original pattern where the fabric was folded to make a casing.

I'm not a keen user of bias tape, so I'll show you how I make a simple A-line skirt and trousers reversible with folding under.

Quick and easy reversible skirt:

1. Draft your pattern. For me, I use a rectangle which has a width of waist measurement divided by two + 6 inches and a height of waist to knee plus 1 inch.


2. Cut two of these pieces of each fabric.


3. Using your first fabric, place one rectangle on the other right sides facing and stitch both side seams, making a tube. Repeat for other fabric.


4. Iron a 1/2" fold at the top edge of each tube (this will help you match up later)


5. Place one tube within the other tube, right sides facing and pin along the hem (aligning side seams). Stitch all the way around with a narrow 3/8" seam allowance.


6. Pull the inner tube out of the outer tubes, fold back up so both right sides are out and the creased edges are at the top.


7. Match the creases at the waist and pin.


8. Stitch very close to the waist edge, leaving a one inch gap for your elastic to be inserted.


9. Stitch another line all the way around, one inch below the top line.


10. Using the small gap, work your elastic (I use waist less one inch) through the casing and secure the ends.


11. Close your gap.


12. Optional: Topstitch bottom edge. If you don't, it'll be a bit of a bubble hem.

Quick and easy reversible trousers

1. Draft or adapt you pattern so there is a 1/2 inch foldover accommodated for at the waist and a 1/2 inch hem allowance. If you want your trousers to have turn-up cuffs to show off the contrasting fabric on the reverse, add a bit of length.


2. Construct both pairs of your trousers until the only raw edges remaining are waist and leg edges.


3. Iron 1/2 inch folds at waist and hems.


4. Wrong sides together, insert one pair into the other pair, pulling legs down.


5. Match up the creases at waist and hem and pin.


6. Stitch very close to the waist edge, leaving a one inch gap for your elastic to be inserted.


7. Stitch another line all the way around, one inch below the top line.


8. Stitch very close to the hem edges.


9. Using the small gap, work your elastic through (I use waist less one inch) the casing and secure the ends.


10. Close your gap.

If anyone is unclear or wants a photo tute, I've taken pictures all the way along if you want me to add them!

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Today's the big day: CPSIA is here

Picture taken from Fashion-Incubator forum, no credit I could find!

I've been in a bit of a creative funk lately due to lack of sleep, negativity, and the looming approach of the CPSIA. Well, today's the day, so where so we stand? The truth: no one really knows. The CPSC issued a set of last minute guidelines last night to clarify some of the issues people have been raising. Which is only a little bit helpful, as it has the following disclosure:

"This information was prepared by CPSC staff, has not been reviewed or approved by, and many [sic] not necessarily reflect the views of, the Commission. It may be subject to change based on Commission action."

This just about sums up the fundamental problem with the CPSIA: there is no clarity or permanence. Manufacturers and retailers have to comply with the law (that much is clear), but the goalposts keep changing. In fact, since my last CPSIA post the phthlate element of the stay has been challenged and overturned. This doesn't directly affect me as I don't make toys or feeding / sleeping accessories but what sort of confidence can anyone have that this law won't take another lurch in a different direction? How can anyone make provisions for compliance when standards are proposed then overturned, and guidance notes on the CPSC website aren't even official? And Congress and the CPSC play hot potato as to who's responsible for this mess?

Another red herring was contained within the guidance notes in the list of materials that are exempt. I felt all warm and fuzzy for a minute when I read that finally some textiles have been exempted:

"Dyed or undyed textiles (cotton, wool, hemp, nylon, etc.), including children’s fabric products, such as baby blankets, and non‐metallic thread and trim. This does not include products that have rhinestones or other ornaments that may contain lead or that have fasteners with possible lead content (such as buttons, metal snaps, zippers or grommets)."

See the catch there? The addition of buttons, snaps, or zippers moves it right back into the 'danger zone'. Methinks we'll be seeing a lot of pullover tops and elasticated trousers!... Or will we? Right now there are a lot of people scrambling around trying to figure out if elastic is okay.

Need something else to worry about? Even if you are being super vigilant and getting your testing done yourself, you still might not sleep easy at night. My favourite person, Walter Olson, posted this on Overlawyered:

"There are naturally occurring variations in lead content within a given run of metal alloy snaps, clasps or grommets. So even if all 20 that you test happen to score below CPSIA’s permitted threshold, you may still wind up incorporating some that fail into your line of garments. And the first you hear about that may be the press release from the state attorney general or private operator angling for settlement money. Aren’t you glad CPSIA was written to include such harsh penalties for inadvertent and unintended violations?"

And then there's the whole enforcement issue. The fact that the Attorney General of each State decides how to enforce the stay is a logistical nightmare. It was reported in my parent's local paper that Connecticut's AG (who was also instrumental in reintroducing the retroactive element of the ban) has said:

"My office will take whatever steps are necessary to ensure this phthalate ban is enforced.”

Compare that with Michigan's AG who has said:

"...many issues still need to be addressed with respect to the CPSIA. Until these issues are clarified, it would be an inefficient use of already-strained state resources to devote significant time to monitoring compliance with the CPSIA with respect to small operations..."

Will I need to keep a database of which States are okay to ship to?!

So where does that leave me (other than with a sore head and heavy heart)? This is what I see my opinions to be with regard to my Etsy shop:

1. Leave it exactly as it was six months ago, with no mention of CPSIA. Stick my head in the sand until when / if I have an order.
2. Leave it exactly as it was six months ago. State that I have not had XRF testing and leave it up to the consumer as to whether my elasticated peasant tops or fabric covered buttons are dangerous.
3. Leave it exactly as it was six months ago. State that the clothes are for child-sized dolls.
4. Leave it exactly as it was six months ago. State that I will not ship anything to the US except my patterns.
5. Have a streamlined shop with no items with buttons, snaps or zips.
6. Remove everything except my patterns.
7. Set up separate shops for patterns and apparel to keep US and non-US customers separate so that it's easier to draw the line on shipping options.

For the moment I removed anything with snaps, plastic buttons or zips and left only things with elastication or fabric covered button closure. I didn't really even want to do that, a significant portion of my business (maybe 10% or so?) of apparel orders have been outside of the US so if I remove them no one's able to buy them. Over the weekend I had a full shop and an announcement that I regretfully wouldn't ship apparel to the States anymore but I just felt so awful about that (and worried it would alienate people) that I took it down. I would love some advice from my generous readers!

I really don't have the time to go into how this is affecting resale / thrift shops, charities, libraries and children's boutiques, but it's big. Children's books made pre-1985 are pretty much contraband unless you have the resources to test. There are reports of thrift stores throwing all their children's toys and apparel into dumpsters. You might even struggle to buy your kid a bike. If you feel like reading more (as if!), here is some more interesting reading:

Fashion Incubator

Forbes's round-up of how the CPSIA effects each of the 50 States

Overlawyered's CPSIA Chronicles: February 10

CPSIA Cheerleader

600ppm: The CPSIA Blog (if nothing else, check it out just for this picture)

NB. After three days of negative posts, I hope it's worked it's way out of my system and normal irreverant, sarky posts can resume tomorrow!

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I stand corrected

Further to my post yesterday about Living Etc's 'See what I made' forum, I would like to clarify an erroneous statement I made. I'll give you a clue: it's not that I thought they were mean. I'm sticking to that despite outrage that we considered their comments nasty and a suggestion that we 'try to be big strong grown ups and get a grip'.

I hold my hands up because, when I said that Folksy folk were being ridiculed for 'making stuff out of jam pots and earwax' and that was not true, I didn't check my facts. I was wrong. The very talented Rhubarb Crumble has indeed made something out of jam pots and earwax.

And what a lovely description... "This delightful, handwashed jam jar is finished to a high standard with a collection of Johnson Brothers ear buds and accompanying organic earwax. With its smart monochrome top contrasting with the pastel shades of its contents, this collectable item sure to be a talking point on any mantelpiece, or alternatively would make an excellent gift."

Snap it up, my fellow 'felt wearing hemp munchers', they're limited edition!

Oh... and Rhubarb Crumble, I think I love you.

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